Back from surfing. Why don’t I do this more often?

Hi, friends and readers:

It’s four AM; I’m wide awake. My sleep schedule’s all messed up because yesterday, I rose at five AM to visit Florida’s East Coast for a surfing trip. It wasn’t a wasted effort, rarely is.

I went with two guys much younger than me. The age difference did not matter. One guy I’ve known since he was 17, the other guy I met for the first time; he was cool. We drove over there in a panel van, with our boards and gear. I felt like I was in high school again

We arrived in Cocoa Beach around nine AM. Conditions were the best I’ve ever seen there, due to a tropical storm in the Atlantic. We had an offshore breeze. We had cloud cover; it kept things cool. The waves were shoulder-height and glassy; they came in sets of three or four, with lulls in between, which made for an easy paddle-out. We surfed 2-1/2 hours, I think. Then we ate lunch at Taco City, my favorite Cocoa Beach restaurant.

Okay, the tide came up and the surf wasn’t good after lunch, but I didn’t care. The morning was enough. We drove home around three PM, tired and happy. The whole way home, I kept asking myself, “Why don’t you do this more often?”

If you have never surfed, it would be hard for you to understand. I’m not a good surfer, but I can paddle out; I can catch waves. I can pop up and ride the face of a wave. Believe me, it’s a wonderful experience. I never feel closer to nature — and to myself — than I do when I’m on the water. This afternoon, I made myself a promise I will do this more often.

Have a nice Sunday night, everyone.


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